40K C2A: Tim’s Blog Entry 2 – Easy Painting

The Particular Judge

At this point many of you have seen my posts on the BKG Call to Arms Facebook group (If you’re signed up for the C2A and not in the Facebook group, ask a staff to add you next time you’re in).  I wanted to talk a little about what I’ve managed to paint so far, and what colours and techniques I used to get it done quickly and easily.  This won’t be the blog post that tells you how to paint beautiful non-metallic metals or get realistic source lighting.  My paint scheme is quick, easy, and it looks okay.

Group Shot


DunecrawlerWhen picking my colours for an army I plan to paint quickly, I am careful to focus on simple, primary colours and bright metals that take a wash well.  Because it’s easy to apply red over almost anything, but difficult to apply anything over a red, I primed my models in the second most common colour in the scheme, Army Painter Platemail Metal.  One can was lots for my entire army.

Before moving on, I’d like to make a few quick points about priming.  Normally with a primer the goal is not 100% coverage.  With regular primer, I just want to dust a model lightly to avoid losing any detail and to allow paint to stick nicely.  With the colour primer, this is my basecoat.  Because I’m getting most of my tone and depth from washes, my basecoats need to be applied without leaving gaps.  Good rules for priming start with a lot of shaking.  I shake my primer bottle for a full 5 minutes, which is a long time.  When I go to apply paint to a model, I start by just spraying the air, in short bursts, to confirm it isn’t sputtering and get what might be a little bit of dried up paint out of the nozzle.  Next I continue short bursts of paint, starting pointed at open air, moving across the model about 12 inches from it, then ending pointed at open air about.  It’s best to do multiple quick passes then to leave your spray pointed at the model.  I move the model, either in my hand (with a glove or a plastic bag) or on a surface that’s easy to move around.

After priming and letting my models dry, the next step is adding the basecoat of red.  I plan to highlight this once, so I picked a dark red for lots of contrast.  Army Painter Chaotic Red Warpaint takes a few thinned down coats to apply evenly over a large surface.  Typically I don’t worry too much about this colour spilling over to other areas, and use a large brush to get as much paint on in a short time as possible.  Next I touch up any uncovered areas with the Army Painter Platemail Warpaint a colour-match for the primer.  This is also when I’ll carefully go back over any red that should have been metal.

Imperial KnightThe longest step in the entire process, and the most soul crushing, is the brass.  I use Army Painter Weapon Bronze to pick out any details I would like to be brass.  It’s important to use this colour to break up the silver of any otherwise plain looking model.  At this stage of the process the model tends to look quite unfinished and it’s easy to lose faith.  I throw a mostly audio series on Netflix and just grind it out.

Pictured here: I’ve just started the brass on my Imperial Knight, but haven’t gone back and cleaned up the red yet.

After the brass is complete, I apply a liberal wash with Skitarii VanguardCitadel Agrax Earthshade.  This is a warm wash, to match my warm colour scheme.  One of the easiest mistakes to make with a wash is using an inappropriate temperature.  Models washed like this can often look dirty or not used as part of a larger technique.  After applying this wash, while it’s still wet, I go back and wick away areas where the wash has pooled excessively.  The effect makes the metal look deeper and more blended, and adds a dark recess to the red.  Pictured to the right: my Skitarii Vanguards after a wash.  The effect looks reasonably clean and passes the arm-length-test.

Ironstrider BallistarusAfter letting the wash dry, the next stage is highlighting the red.  I used Army Painter Pure Red Warpaint and used the way the wash had settled as a guideline for the high and low places on each model.  In highlighting, I focused on spending a little extra time in one place, like a hood or a cloak edge, and then being quick with the rest of the model.  These coats of red are thinned down considerably, and I’m not as focused on getting a coat that covers the whole surface.  The effect is nice and striking with the Ironstrider Ballistarus pictured here, to the left.

Basing is a critical stage of making a model look good.  For my bases, I decided to Citadel Blackfire Earth Texture Paint.  The textured paints are a new part of the citadel range and basically combine the gluing sand stage with the base coating stage.  The blackfire had a nice Martian orange look, so I only added to it by giving it a light Citadel Seraphim Sepia wash.

On the larger models I plan to add some Citadel Mordheim Turf to add some dried out grass and break up the larger spaces.

I painted the base rims with Citadel Dryad Bark.  Black rimmed bases tend to have an unfinished quality to them.  I wanted to avoid that, stick with my warm tone, but still base with something dark to add contrast.

The last step in the process, and one I’m certainly not finished doing yet, is adding Sicarian Inflitrators“that little bit of extra” to models to supply extra contrast or pick out a cool detail.  With the Sicarian Infiltrators pictured to the right, I added a Citadel Guilliman Blue Glaze to the tasers, the energy coil on their backpacks, and the vent of their blasters.  With everything else on the model being bright, warm colours, the small bit of blue stands out sharply without much effort.

For my HQ, I spent a little extra time on the details.  P3 Menoth White Highlight for her discoloured, unhuman flesh.  TTech-Priest Dominushis warm, cream coloured highlight gives the impression of age warts with a quick wash–not a bad end result for an aged technomage.  Once again I used a little bit of the blue glaze to add some glowing power weapons.  I added a little bit of drybrushed Menoth white to the base, used conservatively, to distinguish a could of the rocks and make the model pop a bit more.

And that’s it so far!  I plan to add some freehanding, a few decals, and maybe even a small allied force.  What do you think so far?  How have you been progressing in the C2A?  Next time you’re by the shop, feel free to challenge me to a 1500 point game.

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